Pie and the sky – Day 34

Date: Saturday 11th September   

Route: Pittsburg, Kansas – Ash Grove, Missouri

Distance: 71 miles

Total climb: 2797 ft

Net climb: 163 ft

A new map (section 9) yesterday was followed quickly by a new state this morning. We wolfed down an abundance of cereal in the motel, before setting off into the rain, shooting past the university and out the far end of town. The move from Kansas to Missouri took place a short distance from Pittsburg, calling for a brief photo session in the downpour. Kansas can be summarised as a unique and memorable experience (in particular the flatlands and farms) with consistently friendly residents, but we leave with some relief to have broken the ‘groundhog day’ sensation of never really escaping our frustrations in Larned.

Section 9 is the first map in a while to have an elevation profile on it, with Kansas being too flat to warrant one. With the profile came rolling hills that lead into the Ozarks. Such hills, the green landscape and more woodland gave the feeling of home. However, once the rain had cleared, the humidity made it seem more like we were riding exercise bikes in a steam room.

We stopped in the wonderfully-named Golden City for lunch, pulling up at the first diner in sight – Cooky’s. The outside, much like many over here, looked run down and uninviting. However, we wandered into a treasure trove of pies and other delights. The waitress provided the customary log book for cyclists to sign and I couldn’t help noticing how many entries described hearing of the legendary pies in this diner for miles around. My appetite had been whetted.

Jay and I both devoured a main course, giving us time to think our pie selections through properly, before any commitment. He then opted for Dutch Apple pie and I succumbed to the Lemon Meringue, both made freshly on site. Mine was so good that I justified a second choice, a portion of Chocolate Meringue pie – well worth it, particularly given our eating habits in recent days.

After a quick catch up with Team Stockham, we set off into the searing afternoon heat. Unfortunately, Jay’s tire ran flat just a few miles out of Golden City. The inner tube was replaced, but we couldn’t find the source of the puncture. Nonetheless, we rolled on.

A few miles later, his tire was flat again. We pulled up outside a farm machinery sales yard and visited the issue for a second time, but still failed to find the source. The decision was made to roll on, in case this was just a bad coincidence.

It was not. A few miles further up the route, on a country lane past Pennsboro, Jay’s third flat tire brought us to a standstill. After inspecting the wheel again, we decided that the tire must be deficient in some way. We were 15 miles or so from our target destination, Ash Grove. Instead of trying to get there with more flat tires, we decided (in the afternoon heat) that our best option was to source a new tire for Jay. Team Stockham was called and timing was agreed.

We had an hour to relax at the side of the road, whilst waiting for the new tire. Jay chose to use this to read further chapters of Steinbeck’s East of Eden and indulge in some music from his phone. I settled into a cosy part of the grass verge and popped to nodland. The hour passed quickly and Team Stockham did a great job of delivering the tire.

We raced the final miles, over the lumps and bumps of western Missouri, into Ash Grove (population 1,430). It was dark on our arrival and food options were limited – we settled for a sub sandwich from the town’s garage. Team Stockham had delivered again, managing to source accommodation in a town without any – they were offered a spare flat above the gas station for the night, at a great price. We had good beds and some laundry facilities.

Some final bullet points:

• Remembering the events of 2001 today, there were a number of gatherings going on as we passed through Pittsburg and far more star spangled banners than usual on show.
• Jay continues to be a terrapin saviour, collecting most of the live ones on the road and relocating them.
• We pushed over 30 miles ahead of schedule on Day 32, all of which has now been lost to tire issues. This is a little frustrating, but the buffer was built up for this purpose, so I’m glad we gave ourselves a bit of wriggle room.

FP